Windows & Doors: When to Repair, Reseal, or Replace
When to Repair, Reseal, or Replace
The “Envelope” of Your Asset
Your furnace heats the air, but your windows and doors determine if that expensive heat stays inside or leaks out into the Canadian winter.
In real estate, we often see homeowners paralyzed by the cost of new windows (which can easily hit $25,000 – $40,000 for a whole house). So they ignore the problem, letting condensation rot the frames and drafts spike their utility bills.
But you don’t always need a full replacement. Sometimes, a strategic repair is the smarter financial move. Other times, holding onto old windows is costing you more in equity than the replacement price tag.
This guide is your decision matrix for the most critical components of your home’s envelope.
Phase 1: The Window Audit (Repair vs. Replace)
Before you call a salesman who will tell you to replace everything, perform this audit.
1. The “Fog” Test (Seal Failure)
If you see condensation between the two panes of glass, the thermal seal has failed. The insulating gas (Argon) has escaped, and the window is no longer insulating properly.
- The Fix: You usually don’t need a whole new window. You can replace just the “Sealed Unit” (Glass Insert).
- Cost: ~$300 – $600 per window.
- Vs. Replacement: A full new window (frame and all) is $1,000 – $2,000. Replacing just the glass saves you 70% while restoring the R-value and clarity.
2. The Frame Check (Rot & Structure)
Poke the wood frame with a screwdriver. If it’s soft, you have rot.
- Verdict: Replace. You cannot patch structural rot effectively. If the frame is vinyl but warped (not closing properly), the mechanism is shot. Replace it.
3. The “Draft” Test
Hold a candle near the window edge on a windy day.
- Flicker? It might just be the weatherstripping. Replacing the rubber seals and caulking the exterior trim costs <$50 and can stop the draft.
- Still Cold? If the glass itself feels like an ice block, you likely have old single-pane or early double-pane windows. No repair will fix this. You need to upgrade the tech.
Phase 2: The Replacement Strategy (Triple vs. Double Pane)
If you are replacing, this is the big debate in Canada.
Contender 1: Double Pane (The Standard)
- Tech: Two layers of glass with Argon gas.
- Pros: Lighter, cheaper, and standard for most builders.
- Cons: In extreme cold (-30°C), the inside glass will still feel cool to the touch.
- Best For: Milder climates (Vancouver/Toronto) or tight budgets.
Contender 2: Triple Pane (The Canadian Heavyweight)
- Tech: Three layers of glass, two chambers of gas.
- The Cost: Typically 10% – 15% more than double pane.
- The ROI:
- Noise: It is significantly quieter (great for busy streets).
- Comfort: The interior glass stays room temperature even when it is -30°C outside. No more “cold radiating” off the window.
- Verdict: In the Prairies or Northern Canada, pay the extra 15%. The comfort difference is massive, and buyers look for “Triple Pane” on listings.
Phase 3: The Front Door (The 100% ROI Upgrade)
Data shows that replacing an ugly front door acts as a “loss leader” for your whole house—it adds more value than it costs.
1. Steel Doors (The Security Choice)
- Pros: Cheapest option, highly secure, fire-rated.
- Cons: They dent easily. If scratched, they rust. They can feel cold.
- Best For: Entry-level homes or side/garage entries.
2. Fiberglass Doors (The Asset Manager’s Choice)
- Pros: Indestructible. Won’t dent, rust, or warp. Can look exactly like wood (oak/mahogany texture).
- Cons: More expensive than steel.
- Best For: Your “Forever Home” or high-end flips. The R-value (insulation) is typically 5x better than solid wood.
3. Wood Doors (The “Heart” Choice)
- Pros: Beautiful, heavy, luxurious.
- Cons: Terrible insulation (R-2). Requires annual sanding/varnishing. Warps in Canadian winters.
- Verdict: Avoid unless you own a heritage home.
Phase 4: Patio Doors (The Silent Energy Killer)
Old aluminum sliding doors act like a giant hole in your wall. The metal freezes, creating a bridge for cold air.
- The Upgrade: Look for Vinyl or Fiberglass-Clad sliders.
- The Feature: Ensure it has a “Multi-Point Lock” (locks at top and bottom). This pulls the door tight against the weatherstripping, sealing out drafts that standard single-latches miss.
Summary: The Capital Plan
Budget Strategy:
- Don’t replace all at once. Do the “Public” windows first (Front of house, Living Room) for curb appeal. Do the bedrooms later.
- Repair the Seals. If the frames are good, spend $400/window to replace the glass, not $1,500/window to rip them out.
- Paint. If you have old vinyl windows that are yellowed but functional, you can have them professionally spray-painted Black or Charcoal for a modern look at 1/3 the cost of new.
The Bottom Line: New windows and doors don’t just lower your utility bill; they silence the outside world and make the home feel solid. That “quiet quality” is what makes buyers write higher offers.
Need a Glass Tech?
We know the companies that will repair your fogged glass rather than trying to sell you a whole new window package. [Link to Vendor Directory]
Window & Door Replacement FAQs
If you’re ready to sell or have more questions, you can contact us here.
How do I know if my window seal has failed?
Look for condensation or “fog” between the two panes of glass. If you cannot wipe it off from the inside or the outside, the thermal seal has popped and the insulating gas (Argon) has escaped.
Is it cheaper to replace the glass or the whole window?
Replacing just the “sealed unit” (the glass) is typically 50% – 70% cheaper than replacing the entire window and frame. If your frames are in good condition (no rot or warping), replacing just the glass is the smarter financial move.
Do triple-pane windows actually save money in Canada?
In terms of pure energy bill savings, the payback period is long (15+ years). However, regarding comfort and resale value, they are worth it. They eliminate the “cold zone” near windows in winter and significantly reduce outside noise, which buyers love.
Can I paint my old vinyl windows?
Yes, but you must use a specific vinyl-safe spray paint or hire a professional spray company. Painting old white vinyl windows black is a popular, cost-effective way to modernize a home’s exterior without buying new windows.
What is the most secure front door material?
Steel doors are the most secure against forced entry and are fire-rated. However, they can dent. Fiberglass is a close second for security and is far more durable against dents and scratches over time.
Why do my windows feel drafty even when they are closed?
It is likely worn-out weatherstripping (the rubber seals around the edge) or shrunk caulking on the exterior trim. Before replacing the window, try replacing the weatherstripping and re-caulking the outside frame—it costs less than $50 and often solves the problem.
